The Basics of Potato Farming
10-15 centimeters deep holes or a trench should be dug. Plant seeds with the 'eyes' or shoots facing up, leaving 35–40 cm of space between each seed. Fill the well with water and soil and then backfill it. If you are planting in more than one row, make sure there is at least a fifty centimeter space between each row.
As soon as the first shoots appear, cover them with soil from either side of the hole or trench and make sure they have plenty of water. This prevents light from reaching the tubers, which in turn prevents the tubers from becoming green.
Once the plants have bloomed and passed their prime, harvest the crop. However, you can "bandicoot" small potatoes before then by hand digging beneath the plant and carefully removing any that are of a size that can be used.
It is possible to cultivate potatoes in a large container or even an old bucket if you are limited on space. Make sure there is adequate drainage by drilling a few holes in the base of the bucket.
On top of the potting mix, place a seed potato (or more than one if the container is large), and then cover it with another 10-15 centimeters of potting mix.
When the first shoots appear, cover the plant with potting soil from either side and make sure it receives plenty of water. This stops light from reaching the tuber, which prevents the tuber from turning green. You can also add sugarcane mulch to the mound, which will help it retain moisture and look more attractive.
When the plants have flowered and are no longer alive, harvest the crop. However, you can "bandicoot" small potatoes before then by hand digging beneath the plant and carefully removing any that are of a size that can be used.
Planting times for potatoes typically range from late winter to early spring. If you live in an area that frequently experiences frost, you should not plant potatoes until after the last frost of the season. Late in the winter is the best time to plant potatoes in areas that do not get frost.
You can also plant potatoes for a second time in the fall in areas that have a temperate climate or a tropical climate.
Potatoes need approximately three to four months of growing time before they are ready to be harvested. A few weeks after they have finished flowering, plants will begin to wither and die. This indicates that potatoes are ready to be harvested at this time.
You don't have to wait until then though, so don't worry about that. Over the course of the season, it is possible to carefully remove a few of the smaller Potatoes. You won't need to worry about this until the majority of people become more numerous.
After a crop of potatoes has been grown in a given area, the soil is left with a variety of weeds, insects, and diseases. Because of this, switching up what you cultivate in your garden beds is an extremely important practice. For at least three to four years, you should make every effort to avoid planting any members of the potato family (Solanaceae) in the same bed. Tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, and chili peppers should not be planted.
You could plant a crop that produces green manure, or you could plant something that belongs to the onion family, such as onions, garlic, or spring onions (a.k.a. leeks). k a Green Onion or Shallot), Shallots from France, or Green Onions
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Chit the seed potatoes for a few weeks in a well-lit (but not direct sunlight) location before planting them. This will allow them to develop small shoots, which is referred to as the "chitting" process. Egg cartons are an excellent choice for storing potatoes while they are being chitted.
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Potatoes don't need a lot of water while they're growing, so don't worry about drowning them. If you water the mound thoroughly every time you add soil or mulch to it, this amount of watering will be sufficient (unless you are in the midst of an especially hot spell).
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You don't have to harvest all of your potatoes at once; you can do it whenever you need them (just make sure to select the largest ones first). ) and bury the remainder of them in the ground until they are required.
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If you choose to gather all of your crops at once, make sure to store them in a dry, cool, and dark location.
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This will help to prevent the buildup of any soil-borne diseases, so make sure to rotate the position of the potatoes and avoid planting in the same spot as you did the previous year's tomatoes.
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Potatoes that are still green inside should not be consumed at any cost. Because potatoes will turn green if they are exposed to light, it is essential to mound the soil and keep mature potatoes in a cool, dark place. This will prevent the potatoes from turning green.
Whiteflies and aphids are two types of small sap-sucking insects that can cause the foliage of potato plants to turn yellow or become misshapen. These insects are also capable of transmitting viruses that are harmful to plants.
Spray your plants thoroughly with Yates Nature's Way Vegie & Herb Spray once every seven to five days as soon as you notice any signs of aphids or whiteflies. Because aphids and whiteflies often conceal themselves on the undersides of leaves, it is essential to spray both sides of the plant's foliage.
Pests such as caterpillars, beetles, weevils, snails, and slugs, all of which feed by chewing holes in leaves, cause significant damage to potato plants.
There are a number of different kinds of caterpillars that feed on potatoes, including the Potato Moth Caterpillar, which eats its way through the plant's leaves and stems as well as its tubers. Spraying plants with Yates Nature's Way Caterpillar Killer - Dipel once every seven to fourteen days is recommended once caterpillars, or their droppings and damage, have been discovered.
Potato plants are susceptible to attacks from a variety of Weevils and Beetles, including the 28-Spotted Ladybird.
Beetles that are orange in color and have 28 black spots are known as 28-Spotted Ladybirds. The 28-spotted Ladybird, in contrast to the beneficial ladybirds that we try to attract into our gardens, feeds on the leaves of plants. This species' adults and larvae work together to quickly strip the leaves off of potatoes.
You can help keep Weevils and Beetles under control by simply picking off the pests as you see them on the plant and then stomping on them with your foot.
As soon as snails and slugs are discovered, sprinkle Yates Snails & Slug Bait around the plants in the area.
There are many kinds of nematodes that prey on potatoes, including the Root-Knot Nematode, the Pale Potato Cyst Nematode, and the Golden Potato Cyst Nematode. These nematodes attack the roots and tubers of potatoes. Potatoes can become infected with these microscopic worm-like pests, which can be found in the roots and tubers of the plant. On the roots and tubers, the symptoms may manifest as cysts, nodules, lumps, or bumps. Additionally, there may be brown spots on the inside of the tubers.
There is currently no chemical treatment available for nematodes. The best practice is to rotate crops (for ideas on what to plant after potatoes, see What Can I Plant Instead? ), and to purchase garden soil and fertilizers from reputable vendors.
Early blight is a disease that is caused by the fungus Alternaria spp. and has a slow spread rate. Old leaves, which are typically located closer to the plant's trunk, are typically the first to exhibit symptoms. The leaves develop spots that are tan-brown in color and are arranged in concentric rings, similar to a ripple. The perimeters of the spots are yellow. As the disease progresses, the spots on the leaf become larger, the leaf turns almost entirely yellow, and the stem and leaf eventually fuse together. Conditions that are warm and wet are more favorable for the disease.
Phytophthora sp. is the name of the pathogen that is responsible for the fungal disease known as Late Blight. The symptoms appear first on younger leaves, and then they move inward to older leaves as the disease progresses. When they get wet, the small green spots expand until they become large brown to purple-black sections. Mold can develop on the undersides and edges of leaves when the relative humidity is high and the weather is cool and wet. The leaves will wither and fall off in due time.
The disease known as blight can cause tubers to develop dark, sunken areas on the surface, which will eventually cause the tuber to rot completely. Potatoes should be grown from seed potatoes that have been certified as being free of disease. Additionally, planting potatoes in the same spot year after year can increase the risk of blight diseases. Every seven to ten days, saturate plants with the Yates Mancozeb Plus Garden Fungicide and Miticide spray.
Potatoes are susceptible to a wide variety of virulent diseases. These things give the plant an abnormal appearance. stunted, and the majority of the leaf and leaves may have a yellow or mottled pattern that can be seen across the entire leaf.
There is currently no chemical treatment available for viruses. Always begin with disease-free seed potatoes, implement crop rotation, and make sure to purchase your soil and fertilizer from reputable vendors. These are the three most important things to keep in mind when growing potatoes.

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